Pics by Brenton Geach
Words by Greg Bertish
“I first visited Madagascar in 99, and have now done 8 or 9 trips over there. Arriving with SUPS and paddles was a first for me, and actually quite exciting. I love Firsts! And this was the first official SUP trip to Madagascar.
Gary from Coreban had scored in Madagascar with True Blue before. He was amped and wanted to take a bunch of mates back over, and also make a SUP Promo Trip out of it. Coreban had it all set up in Madi already. Boards at the Lodge and a mean looking Coreban branded surf cruiser owned and run by the infamous Captain Jumpy and his first mate Jean. Gary pulled in close mates Lewin, Gary Neill and Al Roberts who are old tri-athlete and surfing mates who are still competitive and in top shape. Then for the SUP riders he invited myself as a fellow Coreban Rider and two of our mates and close competitors Glen Thomson and Pete Petersen of Naish. Along with his good mate, well known photographer and longboarder Brenton Geach who was to surf and document the occasion. Mike De Villiers was a last minute addition to the crew, and that made it nine.
I personally was looking for barrels and big waves and I knew a few of the others were partial to this as well. Although we never got big waves, we got solid and consistent waves and barrels were ridden and made. We wanted to ride as many different waves in the area on SUPs. There was a scramble at each wave we arrived at, to see who would be the first SUPer ever, to ride a wave at that spot. I think Pete got Flameballs, Gary VR got Crusties, Glen got the secret new wave, and I may have got Indicators or Pirogues. Whether we were the first SUPers to ride these waves, we may never know, but pictures don’t lie, and Im sure we are the first to document it.
Our first stop was the infamous Flameballs. A wave I have surfed many times between 4 and 88 feet, and a wave I personally rate as one of the best lefts I have ever surfed. Its fairly fickle, but you can ride it. It’s a fast and long wave that reels at speed over a fairly shallow coral ledge. Best at a proper 6 feet plus, it throws back door barrel sections and then also has the surgeons table ledge waiting for those who make it to the last section. I think Glens, butt still carries the scars and probably will for a while still.
We scored the Flame on our first day there. We arrived and were greeted to 4 foot waves, fanned by a stiff cross -offshore wind. The amazing thing is that the wave faces here are still super clean and smooth even in winds up to 20 knots. No SUP today, but the surfers and kiters grabbed their weapons of choice and bailed overboard.
We all rode a few beautiful waves and got some great barrels before the wind really kicked in. Gary, Gary and Pete pulled in and made us realise why, in these conditions, kiting is king. It got crazy windy, and the kiters were claiming it as all time. I shared one particular wave with Pete on his kite, where I was getting barrelled and he was riding right out in front of me on the same wave. Kiter and surfer riding together and loving it.
The next day was SUP day, as were all the days that followed. I don’t even remember the order of the day, but basically the next few days went something like this. Wake at 6 am ( often to the sound of my Vuvuzela, and to the dismay of the Italian tourists at the lodge); load the surf cruiser; have a quick Madagacan breakfast of coffee, fruit, yellow cake and Baguettes; jump onto the surf cruiser and motor out to the surf;
On this morning it was Flameballs on the higher tide. Glassy and reeling, with over head waves on the sets and as per usual , just us in the water. Barrels were ridden and made, big drops were taken, back hand lay backs held, and many sections raced. There were many wipe outs, and many more barrels almost made. I saw Glen get the wave of the day and pull up into a fat pit that opened up and delivered a few seconds of intense joy, before it closed down and delivered the pain. Beautiful, and so ballsy on his backside.
Pete rode fast and tight and showed how to make this wave look easy on your back hand. No room for turns, and no room for mistakes, Pete was stylin and brave and came away with no scars even with no booties on his toes. Gary, in his Green Ninja outfit, picked off the bombs and dropped into one or two of the bigger waves. Always in the zone, and always ridding in the pocket. Mike Div, paddled into one or two and got to experience the fastest, heaviest and shallowest SUP waves of his life…. He was smiling big, and was to be back for more the next day. I scored some waves and rode many barrels. Many shut me down, but a few were deep & let me out clean. Mission accomplished, thanks to my Lithium 8.11.
After 2 or 3 hours of intense tropical SUPing, it was a 20 min cruise to Jellies. As Pete said, “ this has to be the best SUP wave in the world! “ We SUPed here for 4 of the 6 days, and on some days twice. A perfect A frame peak, that breaks over a flat and friendly reef. The right is awesome, the left can be good. The natural footers took this wave apart. Gary with his vertical attack, Glen with his slick carve to revert, Pete with his repertoire of snaps, hacks and turns, and Mike with his smooth flowing turns. I just tried to get my backhand right. So many hours, so many waves, so many turns….. and again, we had it all to ourselves. Oh, and did I mention the left that peels into the bay just 100 meters away? I paddled over and rode a few of those too, just because it was there and no one was surfing it. Its called Pirogues, with the outer reef known as Indicators, and they both cook. Kak place huh….. NOT!
After our long morning out on the cruiser, we would return to the Lodge for lunch. Absolutely stuffed, and ready to smash an ice cold coke and a lunch of Prawns, Calamari or fish. Afternoons were spent either sleeping, for some, or back out at the reefs, either surfing , kiting or SUPing. It really did not stop.
On our pen ultimate day, we were treated to something new and something special. A newly found reef, only surfed twice before and definitely never SUPed. Picking up all the swell, this world class wave was breaking at head high when all the rest were waist high. No one around, right hander with a wall and shoulder that just reeled and threw, turquoise water, local fishing Pirogues in the line up, Angel fish below……. This horse shoe reef seemed even better than Jellies and definitely delivered more punch, along with a beautiful bowl section that threw our barrel opportunities. I heard the words “SUP heaven” mentioned that day and many other times by the boys, during this trip.
I have not even touched on the how amazing the Beach lodge was, how fantastic the dinners of Crab and Crayfish were, how good the ice cold 3 horses Beer tasted each evening, or how big some of the boys went on the pen ultimate night….. Ginger Rhum being a catalyst to much laughter, good times and one groggy morning the next day.
Madagascar gave us awesome times, beautiful sunsets, cultural experiences and bloody good waves. Whether its with the mates, the babe or the family it’s a place you must experience and a destination that offers something for everyone. SUP, surf, kite, romance or adventure…… its got it all, but the greatest of them all is SUP!”
